Strictly Jane Austen at The Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel

'Taking the waters’ in Bath, Somerset can involve drinking the mineral-rich liquid as a health enhancing tonic. Novelist Jane Austen, whose birth 250 years ago this December is being celebrated in the city, was definitely not a fan. In a letter written in 1799 she wrote: “They are so disgusting in taste that one would not drink them merely for amusement.”

Although I didn’t get that chance, my modern-day pilgrimage to experience the natural spring waters just involved taking an exquisite spa ‘circuit’ to soak in the warm, healing liquid as I channelled my inner Roman goddess. Social bathing with a modern twist.

At the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel, housed in two Grade II listed buildings right in the heart of the city within a UNESCO World Heritage site, lucky guests are the only ones in the UK who can enjoy these natural spring waters in the stunning surroundings of the hotel’s spa village bath surrounded by Romanesque columns beneath a beautiful glass atrium.

Just across the road, mere mortals (adults only) can do the same in the stunning public Thermae pool set on a rooftop.

The circuit involves an hour of dipping in three thermal pools at different temperatures, thalassotherapy, rooms with high heat, including an infra-red sauna that was completely new for me, and rubbing my skin with ice in the ice alcove to cool down. Throughout my journey I had my personal bag of aromatherapy-infused crystals to inhale for even deeper relaxation. Hand me my toga, I’m ready for my lie down now!

This was a truly special and memorable experience. Gorgeous surroundings which reflect its connection to a Roman bath complex discovered underneath the building during historic excavations. But the pampering didn’t end there. In a collaboration that truly makes sense, I was headed for a relaxing massage using Hungarian Omorovicza products also produced with natural healing minerals. I opted for the Golden Body Treatment using the anti-inflammatory properties of gold.

Well, I was still channeling ‘goddess’ after all, so how could I refuse? It began with a gentle exfoliation using gold-enriched sugar, followed by a full-body massage incorporating warmed stones and a dreamy-scented shimmer oil containing Colloidal Gold. My therapist Hana was excellent. She noticed my stiff shoulders before I even sat down and managed to sort the tension speedily as well as instill a deep relaxation during an effective massage.

The hotel is rightly proud of its spa and the hotel owners, YTL, went to great lengths to make sure it was uniquely special. In fact, they loved the location, their first in the UK, so much that they were prepared to BUY the water company with access to the mineral riches underground to be able to use it.

The hotel itself, named for the renowned artist 18th century artist Sir Thomas Gainsborough, who lived in the city between 1759 and 1774, was originally a hospital, hence the very high windows and ceilings that would have been above the patient beds in some of the exquisite rooms, including ours, with a ceiling at least 14ft high. It also housed the Bath College of Art & Design until 2005.

And in the lobby of the hotel is evidence of another link to the ancient past that adds to its rich history - a portion of a Roman coin hoard. In 2007 a total of 17,500 coins were unearthed in the foundations of the hotel. The Beau Street Hoard dated from 32 BC to 270 AD, and is considered to be amongst the largest coin hoards yet discovered in Britain. Some of the coins are on display in the hotel lobby and are worth a close look.

During our stay at the stunningly refurbished hotel with its atmosphere of understated luxury, we found it to be in an excellent location as we struck out to discover the city. It’s in the centre of Bath within easy walking distance of the original Roman baths and the excellent shopping centre and charming squares. It’s a beautiful place with, of course, plentiful gorgeous Georgian and Victorian architecture to admire, not least The Royal Crescent, more of a long walk away, but worth the effort to reach. After a day of sightseeing we enjoyed an excellent meal in the hotel’s Brasserie with a menu that gives modern dishes a delicious and, often spicy twist.

But, of course, it’s this year that Jane Austen’s connection with Bath has been and still is being celebrated. She was born on December 16, 1775 and lived in the city for five years between 1801–1806 after her cleric father retired. Her novels Northanger Abbey and Persuasion contain her thoughts and descriptions of the city at the time. And our visions of those genteel times have been further enhanced by the Netflix TV series Bridgerton filmed using many locations in the city.

Jane Austen fans can visit The Jane Austen Centre in Gay Street, near where she once lived, to find out more about her time in the city and her feelings about it. Her time there is celebrated every year during The Jane Austen Festival which is held every September, but the Gainsborough Bath Spa now offers devotees the chance to immerse themselves in that culture during special Regency Day celebrations.

Strictly Jane Austen

Get an insight into the life of Jane Austen and her world by booking a festive Regency Day at The Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel, in collaboration with Strictly Jane Austen Tours. It includes a workshop on Georgian country dancing - ballroom etiquette and the expressive language of the fan explained, of course. There will also be a talk, An Austen Family Christmas, by Austen scholar and author, Dr Gabrielle Malcolm. Guests will also enjoy a Regency-inspired Afternoon Tea with a glass of fizz at the hotel.

These celebrations will be held on December 4 and 5, 2025 (prices from £90 per person). Book at www.strictlyjaneausten.com/festivejaneausten25

And if the new series of Bridgerton inspires you in 2026 you can book an immersive Jane Austen Celebration week at the Gainsborough Bath Spa. Dates: April 27 – May 2 and October 26 – 31. For more information, visit www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.ukand www.strictlyjaneausten.com

The waters

Legend has it that as early as 863 BC the area’s waters and mud were discovered to be therapeutic and healing. In 43AD the Romans constructed a grand collection of buildings surrounding the springs forming a temple dedicated to the Goddess Minerva. This social complex, including a gymnasium, wine bar, massage area and gaming palace are the inspiration for the hotel’s spa village today.